Do Australian wines lack a sense of place?

Wine

Well known UK wine and food writer and broadcaster Andrew Jefford has taken a year-long position at the University of Adelaide to research Australia's wine regions.

As Senior Research Fellow at the University and Winewriter in Residence to the Australian Wine 2030 research network, Mr Jefford will undertake research and write a book about how great Australian vineyard sites differ from each other and from those elsewhere in the world. He will also take part in lectures, industry meetings and conferences as part of Wine 2030.

Mr Jefford said some Australian winemakers needed to be "a bit braver" in allowing regional characteristics to shape their wines.

"Australia's astonishing wine success overseas has been built on consistency, strong brand marketing, its newness, to some extent fashion, and the clarity and straightforwardness of the wine," said Mr Jefford.

"But the Australian industry needs to deliver more if it wants to maintain and strengthen its position. A sense of place is the guiding principle of gastronomy and fine-wine creation the world over. There is an Australian vanguard which appreciates that, but it's still missing from the typical Australian export wine."

Mr Jefford is known for his writing and broadcasts about different places in the world and the foods, drinks and scents associated with them. He's won many awards for his work including three Louis Roederer International Wine Writers' Awards in the last three years.

Over the past 20 years he has led a highly successful career as a writer and broadcaster in the UK, including many years with the Evening Standard and BBC Radio Four and, currently, the Financial Times, Decanter, World of Fine Wine and Waitrose Food Illustrated.

He has written a number of books including The New France, Peat Smoke and Spirit: a Portrait of Islay and its Whiskies and Andrew Jefford's Wine Course.

Mr Jefford said some may question his credentials to comment authoritatively on Australian wines and its industry.

"There are some outstanding books about Australian wines written by Australia's great wine writers. Why do we need one by a Pom?

"But maybe that's an advantage. I'm not from within the industry and I haven't got an Australian-trained palate."

In fact, he said, the strong "Australian approach" to winemaking was ripe for evolution.

"I'd love to see more aesthetic width in Australian wine. More Australian wine made, if you like, in a less Australian way," he said.

Professor Christopher Findlay, Head of the University's School of Economics and Convenor of Australian Wine 2030, said Mr Jefford would contribute to the work of Wine 2030.

"What makes a great wine? That is one of Andrew's interests and working with him and with the Australian industry on that question will offers new insights for local winemakers and add value to our work," Professor Findlay said.

Mr Jefford's Senior Research Fellowship is being funded and supported by wine-maker and the co-Chair of the Wine 2030's external advisory board, Brian Croser and family, publisher and media proprietor Javier Moll, the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation and the University of Adelaide.

Story by Robyn Mills